How to install subwoofer and amplifier in 2014+ Toyota Tundra CrewMax

After numerous requests, we put produced a video on how to ass an amplifier and subwoofer to your stock Toyota Tundra CrewMax. The video will over step by step how to locate the powers you will need to provide signal to the subwoofer .

Update:

Toyota Tundra SQ1 & SQ2 Stereo System Modification List

The Toyota Tundra SQ1 / 2 packages can be installed with reversible modifications to the truck.

Video Assistance:

Tweeter Mounts:

Front Doors:

NON JBL Tundra’s have a set of dash speakers that resemble tweeters. WE provide mounts that allow you to install aftermarket tweeters in this dash area.

Trucks equipped with JBL have tweeters installed in the door sail panels (panel that covers the door mirror bolts). In many cases our customers will remove the old tweeters and dremel the tweeters to allow new after market tweeters to appear to be stock. If you are concerned about returning these back to stock, you can purchase a set of these JBL mounts for around $65.

Rear Doors:

JBL and NON JBL Tundra’s have tweeters in the rear door panel above the door handle. We offer two choices here.

1. With some minor trimming on door panel you can install the a set of CTX65CS tweeters in the stock location. The aftermarket tweeter will slide into the stock tweeter location. Use a couple of zip ties to hold in place. You will not be able to see any of the mods.
2. Use a coaxial speaker and leave the old tweeter inactive.
3. If you using other brand tweeters, you can dremel the rear door panels. The tweeters will look very much like stock. However, you can’t return back to stock. So some customers will just leave the aftermarket rear speakers when they sell their truck.
4. Another modification is you have to drill through harness plastic to get wiring through OR you can drill a hole in the metal. We generally go through the plastic. In our install vids, we show you how we do this.

Subwoofer Installation:

Installing the subwoofer in the Toyota Tundra is relatively simple. However, you must follow certain steps to ensure proper fit.

Modification 1: Remove the “padding” and stock subwoofer (JBL Truck). Keep all the hardware so you can return to stock.

Medication 2: Install matting on the rear wall. We offer discounted pricing on matting to our customers that purchase the SQ1 or SQ1 package. We have been using Ballastic Matting for years. It is thicker and adheres much better than other types of matting. Plus they recently went to a black foil. This is a big plus for installing a subwoofer behind the seat of your Tundra. The matting will stay in place if you return truck to stock. However, you can reinstall the padding and subwoofer (if equipped in JBL systems)

http://www.ballistic-online.com

Modification 3: If you purchase the SQ1 or the dual kicker subwoofer box, there is a rod that holds the upholstery in place. This rod is on the rear of the seat and will need to be bent forward around ½” inch. This has no effect on the seats nor can you see the modification.

NOTE: Many customers report they do not have to do this on their truck, but we still recommend that this be checked to ensure the subwoofer does not hit the seat.

Modification 4: (New Version Ported Boxes) In the newer version of the Toyota Tundra Crewmax subwoofer boxes, you will need to trim some plastic on the seats. You will need a Dremel or file. Don’t worry you can’t see the modification nor does it affect the operation. This simply allows the seat to move up / down as designed.

Rear Door Wire Harness:

When running speaker wire through the stock wiring locations, you will need to modify the rear door wire harness. The harness on the rear door is a two piece connection. You will need to drill a large enough to run the speaker wire(s). This does not affect the performance of the truck and can’t not be seen. Most customers leave speaker wire in place if they decide to remove the system when selling the truck.

The only modification that can not be “undone” is the rear door tweeter mount. That is why we offer the option to substitute coaxial speakers in place of components for the rear doors.

Additional Installation Information:

Installation Notes:

The ReCurve will allow you to keep your stock head unit. NON JBL Head units are plug and play with no cutting or splicing of the factory wires. Generally we mount the ReCurve under the rear passenger seat. Make sure the ReCurve is mounted and not allowed to move around. Make sure the RCAs do not come in contact with any metal. On the NON JBL units be sure to unplug the power source under the passenger seat. Be sure to watch install videos before you start.

The Javelin amp will fit under the driver seat of your Tundra. We include spacers and screws to attach to your Toyota Tundra.

We generally hide the crossovers under the center console to right of the shift knob.

The subwoofer installation will require small and reversible mods to your Toyota Tundra. You will need to remove the current “padding” that is behind the seats and if you have a JBL system you will remove the stock subwoofer. WE HIGHLY suggest the use of matting material on the rear wall (and doors) to keep the rear wall from vibrating. We have been using Ballistic Matting for years and recently they changed the color of their foil to black. It works great to match the sub and unlike silver matting not easily seen. If you remove the sub box (if you sell your Tundra), the padding can be put pack into place so save the clips.  On the larger seat, on a few models there is a metal rod that holds the upholstery in place, you might have to bend that forward about a half inch. This seems to vary just a bit from truck to truck. You will want to be sure the subwoofer is not coming in contact with the seat. STeps for sub install:

1. Remove the back seats. Get some help they are heavy. Please some cardboard or carpet on your carpet to protect it from the seats as you remove them.

2. Remove the back padding on the rear wall and matt the wall.

3. Install the subwoofer box with only one subwoofer in place. The subwoofer closest to driver side needs to be in place.  Dont’ forget to connect the terminal cup and wire the subs appropriately.

4. Install the larger seat (driver side) by inserting the FRONT mounting pins, then slowly drop the rear of the seat down. The seat bracket will fit in the “notch” on the front of the subwoofer box.

5. Tighten the bolts down on larger seat (driver side), check that the upholstery rod is pushed as far forward as possible. You might have to hammer it forward. This will not affect the seat performance.

6. The mounting block and bolt included with the sub will cover the square hole on the back of the subwoofer box. Do NOT over tighten the bolt. Tighten just enough where the box will not move or rattle.

7. After tuning and setting up the system ensure the subwoofer (closest) to driver side is not coming in contact with seat. We can not warranty claim a subwoofer with physical damage.

8. Install the passenger side seat.

Should I add capacitor or upgrade the battery if I add amp or upgrade my audio system?

Should I add capacitor or upgrade the battery if I add amp or upgrade my audio system? Well this is a very common question we get from our many customers. Keep in mind you will get many different opinions on this topic. Each scenario is different and some of the suggestions may or may not apply in your particular scenario. This write up is for the majority of Toyota Tundra owners. We have installed and assisted in installing THOUSANDS of audio system for our customer base. AT the time of this article we have 23,000 customers and have fulfilled over 32,000 online orders. Plus we install MANY audio systems here in the San Antonio TX area. We have people come from other states to have audio systems installed. We had a vehicles shipped to our shop from as far as Puerto Rico. We also perform aftermarket stereo installations for local Toyota dealers here San Antonio. So, to say we have a lot of experience with Toyota’s is a bit of an understatement. If you have a cousin or friend of friend that disagrees then by all means, please go with their suggestions.

The short answer; for the vast majority of audio system upgrades, you will NOT want or need a capacitor. However, you will want to strongly consider upgrading your stock battery. I have read so many crazy posts over the years, I hope to try to cover as much information on battery selection and the NON use of a capacitor. Personally, I have built and install hundreds of audio systems under 2,000 watts RMS, 4 systems yielding over 12,000 watts RMS in some of my show cars and even in my boat. Not one of those systems required a capacitor. When you properly power and equally as important ground a vehicle, you will notice an increase in sound quality and avoid dimming lights form a higher powered system.

Batteries are like vehicles you need to choose the right battery for your particular needs. So many people will chime in about which battery is best without a clue about batteries. . To many people are fooled by CCA or Reserve capacity but these numbers rarely give the actual load capacity of the battery. So before you purchase a battery or spend a ton of money on something you don’t need. Start with following questions: 1. Do I need a battery that can take heavy abuse? (occasional off-roading hardly requires a “tough” battery) 2. Do I need a battery that provides a long run time with the engine shutoff? For example you tailgate with high powered stereo cranked up for hours. 3. Do you use a winch regularly? There are a few other questions, but do not relate to most folks . . So before you spend a lot of money or time on something you don’t need, do a little homework.

If the answer is no to above questions, just save your money and get a decent battery with a good warranty. If the answer is yes, then you need to narrow down do I need a battery than can take abuse or run time? Which is more important?

A major problem is many manufacturers will use different calculations to rate their reserve & Ah hour rating. So you need to be sure and read the fine print.
In my rock crawler I use an Optima yellow top because it is a dual purpose battery that can take abuse. It has a decent Ah rating and a great starting power. Since I winch a lot and I need to use it to start the crawler every time I manage to kill it, that battery works great.

In Tundras – with audio systems, I like use the Shuriken AGM 120Ah battery. It can take some abuse, but this battery has over 45Ah more run time than the heftiest yellow top (at time of this post). It does great with a winch (only use occasionally) and I can tailgate with my loud stereo for much longer play time.

Check out this post for step by step instructions on how to install an AGM battery into your Toyota Tundra. Note, we have done this same upgrade on Toyota Tundras ranging from 2007 – 2015. NOTE: We have only done this on Tundra’s equipped with a 5.7 liter engine.

Ok, so why did I choose Shuriken? Well after years of trying different batteries and REAL world testing, the Shuriken has an amazing bang for buck. We have a show truck we use car shows. The truck is crazy loud and can run for up to 8 hours with 3 Shuriken 120BTs. WE had a couple of other brand batteries that we pulled out over time testing. Additionally, my personal boat has over 5,000 watts RMS and I rely on my batteries to play ALL day when we are tied up in the party cove entertaining all the crazy girls dancing! What good is a battery if it can’t hang longer than the party?

Some other issues to ponder:

Will the battery fit?
Are the terminals in the correct spot?
Will I need to change my battery connectors?
Will I need to modify my battery tie down?
Plus quite a few others . .

Battery Types:

Wet Cell (Flooded) – This is the average basic battery installed by auto manufacturers and the most popular replacement battery you will pick up at your local parts store. There are two types to choose from serviceable and sealed.

AGM – Absorbed Glass Matt are constructed of suspended plates that are in close proximity with very little liquid and can be mounted in just about any position. Common applications include high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and long term storage battery. The larger AGM batteries are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver their best life performance if recharged before allowed to drop below the 50% discharge rate. When Deep Cycle AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of no less than 60% the cycle life will yield hundreds of deep cycles. They are dual purpose batteries. You can use them to start your application and provide a deep cycle that will ruin standard wet cell batteries.

Gel Cell – The Gel Cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a Gel Cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in southern regions where heat is a batteries major enemy.

Battery Comparison:

At the time of this post, below is a picture and specs for the the following batteries.

Yellow Top – 8051-160

Ah: 75 (C/20)

Weight: 59.8 lbs

CCA:900

Red Top – 8078-109

Ah: 50 (C/20)

Weight: 39.5 lbs

CCA:800

Shuriken SK-BT120

Ah: 120 (C/20)

Weight: 79 lbs

CCA:920

Northstar NSB-AGM-31M

AH: 102 (C/20)

Weight: 76 lbs

CCA:900

As you can see in the specs provided by each manufacturer. The Shuriken edges out all the batteries in run time. However as stated above, you need to choose the right battery. We use the Shuriken BT-120 in Toyota Tundras and Tacomas. They will fit into the truck with some modifications. I personally use the yellow top in my rock crawler because the battery is made for heavy physical abuse. Most Toyota Tundra and Tacoma owners are not going to abuse their truck at the level of a rock crawler. Northstar makes a great battery and they are very expensive. However, they have a better warranty than the Shuriken BT-120 1 year warranty. I am obviously biased towards the Shuriken. I have been using them for over 5 years in my boat. The same 3 batteries run my 5,000 watt (RMS) system all day long! What good is a great stereo with a battery that can’t hang?

Do I need to do the Big 3?

First off some of you guys are probably asking what is the Big 3 (see below)? Over the years, most car audio guys have probably heard about the big 3 upgrade. This upgrade stems from the OLD days when Chevy & Ford STOCK alternators had a max amperage output of roughly 50 amps. Times have changed along with power requirements. For example, if your 2007+ Toyota Tundra has the tow package, you probably have 150 amp alternator. Cars these days have way more electronics and require a lot more power than the “old days”. So unless you are building a CRAZY system, you only need to upgrade your chassis ground in your Tundra. Check out our how to page here. If you purchase a battery similar to our recommendations above, you will not need a capacitor.

What is the Big 3?

Larger gauge power wire from alternator positive to battery positive, Larger battery wire negative to chassis, and larger engine ground wire to chassis

Click here to see how to upgrade the battery in your Toyota Tundra.